Best of Sacramento 2015: Food & Drink writers’ picks

Food & Drink writers’ picks

Build your own poke bowl—and send your mouth to the tropics—at Fish Face Poke Bar.
Build your own poke bowl—and send your mouth to the tropics—at Fish Face Poke Bar.PHOTO BY EVAN DURAN

Best oral trip to Hawaii

Fish Face Poke Bar

In Hawaii, beach-time lunch runs involve driving to the nearest fish market and munching on cubes of raw ahi tuna, marinated in soy sauce and sesame oil. It’s called poke, and it’s in Sacramento at last thanks to Kru’s Billy Ngo. At his latest venture, Fish Face, you build your ultimate poke bowl with options for protein, sauce and other fun additions. Will it be tender octopus dressed in spicy kimchi and daikon sprouts? Or Passmore Ranch sturgeon in yuzu ponzu, avocado and mango? Close your eyes, taste the ocean and imagine sand between your toes. 1104 R Street, Suite 100; (916) 706-0605; www.fishfacepokebar.comJ.B.

Best reason to cook for yourself

Mei Mei Noodle Factory

It can be tempting to drive to your favorite South Sacramento restaurant anytime you have a handmade noodle craving. But damn it, you should use your kitchen and actually cook once in a while. Don’t worry, I’m not suggesting you roll your own noodles. Hit up Mei Mei Noodle Factory instead. Find noodles for stir-fries or big bowls of udon alike—just $1.19 per pound and way better than even the fresh noodles you see at most Asian grocery stores. Need another endorsement? Just ask the chefs over at Mother. 1710 10th Street, (916) 448-2938. J.B.

Best Russian cheese selection

Berezka Market

Tiny Berezka is tucked away in a tired, nondescript strip mall that most folks can’t even see when driving down Sacramento Avenue. Although the market carries some of the best chocolates from Russia and other specialty goods, the cheese is the real lure. That’s in part because—unless you’re already a Russian cheese expert—you never know what you’re buying until you’ve had a taste. Due to language barriers, Berezka employees describe the store’s many varieties of cheese the same way: “Russian cheese.” Luckily, you can sample until you find the right one—and then buy by the pound. 958 Sacramento Avenue in West Sacramento, (916) 374-8834. E.J.

Best morning tiramisu

Dianda’s Italian Bakery and Cafe

Tiramisu is the undisputed king of Italian desserts—don’t even try to argue here—and like carrot cake, it passes as a substantial breakfast item if you’re willing to lie to yourself a little. Dianda’s Italian Bakery & Cafe crafts not only one of the best slices of ’misu in the area, but grabbing one is easily done for Fair Oaks-dwellers on a time-crunched commute to the office. Dianda’s take is perfectly portioned, not overly sweet and a steal at only $3.75 a slice. 10131 Fair Oaks Boulevard in Fair Oaks, (916) 966-3757. J.C.

Best local pizza you shouldn’t ever forget

Luigi’s Pizza Parlor

We screwed up. Last year, SN&R published a cover story ranking the best pizzas in the region—and we straight forgot Luigi’s in south Oak Park! Maybe it’s the location (too off the grid), or maybe it’s Luigi’s commitment to classic pies (too old school). Anyway, I personally felt like a dumb dog for neglecting to include Luigi’s in the region’s top 10—it absolutely is—and started frequenting the pizzeria again this summer after softball games. Memories: that Luigi’s House pie, what with its trio of meats, dipped in ranch dressing. If that’s not true Sacto, then I don’t know what is. Special shout out to Celso Brida, the boss at Luigi’s, who left this world in March. Rest in peace, sir. 3800 Stockton Boulevard, www.luigispizzaonline.comN.M.

Best buffet for dinner

Pooja Indian Grill

Here’s why Indian buffets aren’t always ideal: they’re only at lunch and the naan usually dries out. Pooja Indian Grill—already a purveyor of some of the finest Indian food in the area—solves both of those issues. The restaurant started offering dinner buffets on Friday and Saturday nights for about $16, and the naan is made-to-order for each table. Absolutely brilliant. On a recent evening, there was crispy fish pakora, lamb that slid off the bone, thick saag paneer, aromatic goat curry and a wide selection of Indian desserts for ecstatic overeating. 1223 Merkley Avenue in West Sacramento, (916) 375-8906, http://poojaindiangrill.comJ.B.

Best love-filled bowl of menudo

Alonzo’s Coffee Shop

In order to properly dress a bowl of tripe-filled menudo, you must have lemon wedges, diced onions and oregano. Wanda Alonzo, owner of Alonzo’s Coffee Shop, personally sees to it that each customer receives all the fixings that make this hearty, Mexican breakfast soup so enjoyable. The recipes at this family owned and operated restaurant are more than 40 years old, belonging to Wanda’s husband, Jesus. He died 13 years ago, but Wanda and her son, Samuel, continue to keep his spirit alive via their wonderful homemade food. 5649 Stockton Boulevard, (916) 453-9225. S.R.

Best nighttime wake-up call

de Vere’s Irish Pub

Sometime you want to catch a buzz, but you don’t want to be sleepy at the same time—and you’re way past drinking vodka-Red Bulls. Enter the Irish coffee—and no one in town does it better than de Vere’s. They mix Tullamore Dew Irish Whiskey and coffee, which makes for a warming, bittersweet drink. It’s then topped off with very sweet, thick, fresh whipped cream, which contrasts well with the whiskey-coffee blend. They are a little steep at $8—and on the small side—but they are absolutely delicious. 1521 L Street; 217 E Street in Davis; http://deverespub.comA.C.

Best vegetarian food for omnivores

Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant

It seems like every couple these days has one omnivore and one vegetarian. Unfortunately, the latter tends to miss out on the best dishes at most local restaurants. Not so at Abyssinia. The tofu awaze tibs are extremely tasty, with a wonderful texture and seemingly perfect blend of chili, garlic and onions. Or try one of the menu’s many different wot-style dishes, a sort of stew with special spices and loads of clarified butter. Omnivores and vegetarians alike will leave plenty satisfied. 346 Fulton Avenue, (916) 481-1580, www.abyssiniaethiopianrestaurantsacramento.comE.J.

Best surprise soda aisle

La Superior Hillsdale

Venturing into this particular La Superior leaves you inundated with the smells from the adjacent taqueria and with more primary colors than the Gobstopper wing of the Willy Wonka Factory. But venture you must, because an entire aisle is dedicated to bottled soft drinks—the majority made with real sugar instead of nasty high fructose corn syrup. Domestic brands like Coca-Cola and Dr. Pepper sit cozy next to Latin American brands like Jarritos and Inca Kola. 5731 Hillsdale Boulevard, (916) 332-6200, www.lasuperiormercados.comJ.C.

Best pupusas

La Hacienda Mexican & Salvadorian Restaurant

Hiding in a sad, decrepit-looking shopping center are some of the best pupusas around. For the uninitiated, pupusas are a traditional Salvadorean dish that fuses a special, thick cornmeal dough—also known as masa de maiz—with just about any filling you desire. The most popular is the cheese pupusa made with fresh, soft quesillo that oozes out of the center—but the seasoned chicken and refried bean varieties are excellent too. La Hacienda’s offerings change regularly—at just $2.50 per pupusa, come often, come hungry and try them all. 3315 Northgate Boulevard, Suite 9, in Natomas; (916) 921-1282. E.J.

Best reason to say “put an egg on it”

Hankook Tofu House

I adore runny eggs and put them on just about everything: salads, pastas, sandwiches, you name it. Hankook Tofu House is all over the egg game already. The Korean restaurant specializes in tofu soup: bubbling red broth, intense spice, silky tofu and—if you ask nicely—an egg on the side. Your server will crack it in, and then you can gently push the yolk underneath the kimchi, mussels or whatever else you have in there. You’ll sip and savor the soup—momentarily forgetting about the egg altogether—and just as you think the meal is ending, you’ll meet your rich, yolky reward. 9521 Folsom Boulevard, Suite A; (916) 364-1950. J.B

Best sausage from a true meister

Morant’s Old Fashioned Sausage Kitchen

In Germany, you can’t just open up a sausage shop and expect everything to be gravy. You have to earn that right through rigorous education and a certification process that proves that you are, in fact, a sausage meister. We should also have such high regard for tubed meats in the United States, but until we reach that enlightened state, we have Morant’s, run by certified meister Dirk Müller. Free yourselves from the shackles of bastardized brats in the name of the real thing. 5001 Franklin Boulevard, (916) 731-4377. A.S.

(SN&R)